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Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak, officially the highest of Nepal ’s permitted trekking peaks, ries to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the wild and heavily woded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas . Mera (Peak) is a chance to venture into a little visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 21,000 feet.” Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the South, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass- growing monsoon. The upper Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place of massive moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that include Charmlang and Baruntse.

Additionally, it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery, pristine forest, and high altitude climbing in the world. We start this climb with a hair-raising flight into the small town of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it is a six-day trek, with plenty of acclimatization days to keep us healthy at our ever-increasing altitude, through some of Nepal’s most pristine Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests, past beautiful alpine lakes, and finally up to the foot of Mera Glacier where we’ll establish base camp. We’ll set up two more high camps, the first over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier, and the second after we cross the Mera crevasse field at 5,800 m. From here it is a steady and steep climb to reach the summit, with awe-inspiring views of Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, Everest and Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to the west.

Trip Facts
Country: Nepal
Trip Code: BHT-NPC-02
Duration: 21 days
Area: Everest Region
Difficulty:
Activities: Nepal Peak Climbing
Max. Altitude: 6,476  M.
Min/max Group Size: 2/15
Seasons: Apr-Jun, Sep-Dec
Itinerary
  • Itinerary
  • Cost Include & Exclude
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Day 01.

Arrive in Kathmandu

Airport transfer; free-and-easy at Thamel; distribution of trekking equipment. The evening will be highlighted by a traditional Nepali cuisine as a perfect end of your very arrival day in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal.

 

Day 02.

Mountain Flight to Lukla (2860m) Trek to Phuiyan (2796m) walk 4-5 hrs.

Flight to Lukla where the airstrip at Lukla was built by Sir Edmund Hillary and his friend; Our Expedition route to Mera to the south is a welcome escape from the crowded trail to traditional Everest Base Camp. After having lunch at Surkhe you will pass through many traditional villages to reach to the vicinity of Phuiyan for our first night camp.

 

Day 03.

Trek to Pangkogma (2846m) walk approx. 06 hrs

After a short walk from Phuiyan our trail breaks away, leaving the main route to Namche Bazzar and head east into the mountains, following the old trading route linking the Everest region to the Arun valley.

Day 04.

Trek to Narjing Dingma (2690m) walk approx. 06 hrs

In the cool of the morning we head up towards the Pangkongma La pass (3140m) behind the village, marked by some very ancient looking Chortens. Once we entered the Hinku valley, immediately there is a feel of unspoilt remoteness.

 

Day 05.

Trek to Chalen Kharka (3440m) walk approx 05,06 hrs

The forests continue as we ascend, now mainly rhododendron. From the Surkie La (3,085m) we head north along the ridge, and the whole of eastern Nepal opens out in front of us, over the wildly remote Honku valley.

Day 06.

Trek to Khola Kharka (4120m) walk approx 06 hrs

From here up the ridge is cragged with lichen rocks and heathers, and we wind our way up over several rises. The ridge narrows as dramatic gullies drop away steeply on either side. Over a final crest (4,330m) we reach the unexpected suspended ledge of the lakes of Panch Pokhari - five lakes, the sacred number.

Day 07.

Trek to Kote (3490m) walk approx. 06 hrs

An excellent trekking day, walk through the dwarf juniper; rhododendron and lovely mixed firs will add the beauty in your trip. Enjoy the great view of Mera and Hinku valley before we descend steeply to the phenomenal cascading junction of two mountain torrents, crashing down through tall pine forests all around our lunch site.

Day 08.

Trek to Tangnang (4140m) walk approx 5- 6 hrs

The forest gives way to open valley again by mid-morning, revealing the peaks which line either side. A small Buddhist Gompa in the rock wall above the path contains some unexpectedly fine Buddha statues within. The valley swings eastward into a new array of peaks and the route up toward the Mera glacier comes into view.

 

Day 09.

Climbing Clinic / Acclimatisation Day

This acclimatisation day is very important and useful for boosting yours adaptation to the altitude by gaining as much height as we can during the day but returning to Tangnang for the night.

Day 10.

Trek to Khare / Mera Base Camp (4940m), walk approx. 4-5 hrs

This morning’s walk up alongside the Dig glacier is easy and relaxed. This is an excellent valley opening out views to the north of the Hinku Nup glacier and the line of peaks beyond. Behind us is the dramatic spire of the less than romantically named ‘Peak 35’, which has yet to be climbed.

Day 11.

Acclimatisation day /Ridge ascent from Hinku Nup

Today we gain more valuable acclimatisation and pick up some stunning views as well. Following the lateral moraine of the Hinku Nup glacier into an arena of peaks and glacial lakes, we turn to ascend a grassy ridge that rises back to the south.

Day 12.

Climbing Training

Ascending the steep edge of the glacier is an ideal to practice crampon use and ice axe technique, and to get the feel of jumaring on a fixed rope. On top we find a suitable area with a safe run-out to learn self-arrest, the single most important skill of alpine mountaineering, even if little needed on the safe slopes of Mera.

Day 13.

Trek to High Camp. Walk approx. 5-6 hrs

We return to the glacier, and this time follow it round in a wide arc, keeping close under the northern flank where there are no crevasses. The last section is almost level and Mera La (5,410m) itself is a rounded snow col that bridges south to the main sweep of the Mera glacier coming down from the peak itself.

Day 14.

Summit the Mera Peak and back to Khare. Walk approx. 08 hrs

This is the most important and toughest day in any mountaineering trip as you will be awakened before the dawn with the high esteem to summit the peak. After the steaming hot tea and a quick breaky we continue all roped up through the main glacier then crossing back to the south side we approach the snow humpback ridge. The first shafts of the sun hit the big peaks behind us and are soon on our own slopes, an amazing horizontal red glow. The route is still non-technical; 30º slopes, one foot in front of the other, count the steps and take a breather.

 

Day 15.

Spare Day for Summit

The weather condition in the Himalayas is unpredictable so this spare day enables us to be flexible with the program depending upon the weather condition or other problems.

 

Day 16.

Trek to Kote, walk approx 06 hrs

We retrace our trail back to Kote and camp by the river after this life long journey to Mera Peak and enjoy the celebration party.

Day 17.

Trek to Cetera (4190m) walk approx 06 hrs

We follow another new route back to Lukla that stays high on the open hillsides west of the Hinku River, rather than winding through the previous one. This makes for a quicker return with some fantastic views back of Mera herself from a completely different angle.

Day 18.

Trek to Lukla walk approx 07 hrs

The trail goes over a series of rises and high plateau till the windy craggy Zatrawa La (4,580m), the gateway to the Dudh Kosi valley and the trail to Lukla, from where we look back on the Hinku wilderness for the last time and the south face of the peak we have just climbed.

Day 19.

Fly back to Kathmandu

This morning, we have a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu; it is a thrilling exciting flight over forests, fields and villages with the Himalayas at the background. On arrival, we transfer to the hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure.

Day 20.

In Kathmandu:

There are lots of interesting thing to see in Kathmandu valley: the Royal Palace, Durbar Squares, Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), Pashupatinath, Buddhist Stupa at Baudhnath, Patan and an ancient city Bhakatpur etc. Or you may explore down town to shop for souvenirs, getting your photos or slides processed and trying out the various restaurants in Thamel.

Day 21.

Departure/ Trip Concludes:

It is time to fly back to home keeping all the exhilarating experiences of Nepal in mind.

Cost Included.

-  Airport pick up and drop
-  Peak climbing guide
-  Assistant climbing Sherpa
-  Cook, ast cook, other trek crews & porters
-  Insurance, lodging, food & allowance to your trek crews
-  Tent & mattress
-  Three meals a day B.L.D during your camping trek
-  Land transportation as per itinerary
-  Hotel-Bed and breakfast in Katmandu
-  Trek permit, national park fee & peak permit fee
-  Domestic flight ticket Katmandu –-Lukla-Katmandu
-  Sightseeing in Katmandu by private van/car with city guide

 

Cost Excluded:

- International airfares & Personal insurance is compulsory,
- The cost of personal items like laundry & all kind of soft & hard drinks
- Optional excursions
-  Nepal entry visa fee (US$ 40 per person) you obtain a visa easily upon your arrival at Tribhuwan International Airport Katmandu for 60 days from date of issue. You will require 2 passport size photos
-  All others except committed to provide in ‘cost included’ section above

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