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Makalu Expedition

Makalu Expedition was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition. The first attempt on mount Makalu was in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated. In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring, successfully ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days. The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.

Makalu West Face
It is very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final. The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".

The routes are of 4 parts:

The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall. The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

 

Trip Facts
Country: Nepal
Trip Code: BHT-NEP-04
Duration: 55 days
Area: Makalu Region
Difficulty:
Activities: Nepal Expedition
Max. Altitude: 8,463  M.
Min/max Group Size: 2/15
Seasons: Mar- Apr / Sep - Oct
Itinerary
  • Itinerary
  • Cost Include & Exclude
  • Inquiry

Day 01.

Arrival Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel

Day 02.

prepare for expedition

Day 03.

Briefing in Ministry of tourism prepare for expedition

Day 04.

Fly to Tumlingtar to camping

Day 05.

Tumlingtar to Kuwapani

Day 06.

Kuwapani to Chichila

Day 07.

Chichila to Num

Day 08.

Num to Seduwa

Day 09.

Seduwa to Tashigaun

Day 10.

Tashigaun to Khongma La (Danda)

Day 11.

Khongmadanda to Mumfuk

Day 12.

Mumfuk to Yangle Kharak

Day 13.

Yangle Khark to Merak

Day 14.

Merak to Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize

Day 15.

Sersung to Makalu Base camp

Day 16-47.

Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)

Day 48.

Makalu BC to Mumbuck

Day 49.

Mumbuck to Khongma La (Danda)

Day 50.

Khongma La to Seduwa

Day 51.

Seduwa to Chichila

Day 52.

Chichila to Tumlingtar

Day 53.

Tumlingtar to Kathmandu by flight

Day 54.

Kathmandu

Day 55.

Final Departure

Cost Included:

  • Accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast- hotel 3 star.
  • Permit fee of Makalu 1-8463m Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Makalu
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porter from Tumlingtar to Base camp & Base camp to Tumlingtar
  • Kathmandu -Tumlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG per member
    Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
    Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Base camp of Makalu
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  • Fare Well dinner

 

Cost does not included:

  • International airfare from / to your country
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above base camp
  • Tents above base camp
  • High altitude food and fuel above base camp
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator ( will be provided as per rewuest)
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment and commercial filming
  • International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
    Tips and bonuses
  • Garbage deposit fee(Refundable)

Trip Name
Budget per Person*
No. of Person*
-- Personal Details --
Full Name*
Email*
Address*
Country
Telephone/Mobile/Fax (Include Country/Area Code)

-- Arrival Details --

Arrival Date
Departure Date
Airlines
Flight No  Time   
Airport Pickup
Other Specify
    

For more info. please email us.

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Tel: +977-1-4460486
Cell: +977-9841297070
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Web: www.himalayas-trek.com

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Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation Nepal Tourism Board Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (TAAN) Nepal Mountaineering Association